Glass separation help!!

[gbsmiley]

Hello,
I hope someone can help with an issue I'm having.


I've removed a few screens in my time for internal repairs, but refurbishing glass has got the better of me.


Every time I get to glass separation using wire, the polariser comes away
from the Led & I'm left with glass + polariser flopping around attached to
led. (sometimes the polariser gets a nick in it too)



I have a hot plate with vacuum set to 80C & 0.06mm wire


Repairs are all Samsung



I've got 3 more broken screens I can practice on & would be grateful

for some assistance.


regards,
gbsmiley

[Patrosh]

Write me a PM buddy.

Its our daily business.

If you need help just send PM and Iam going to help ya via Whatsapp

[excessive]

Originally Posted by Patrosh

Write me a PM buddy.



Its our daily business.



If you need help just send PM and Iam going to help ya via Whatsapp

Why don’t you give him suggestions here. Other people might be interested.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Ndimo 10]

Show the example picture or video

[Patrosh]

Sry guys.

I didnt thought that it was a good a idea to post it in details in this thread. From my experience is much more easier to help via whatsapp. Pics and Vids can easily be shared via whatsapp.

Dont have the time to do a vid for every single situation. The question wasnt really detailed at least, so its impossible to find a unique answer.

It depends on the panel your are going to refurb. As we know LCD needs allways a separate lightsource the backlight. An LCD works with crosspolarization that means we have to polarizer. One on the backside of the LCD Panel itself and one on top of the LCD panel.

OLEDs dont need a backlight because they are organic light emitting diodes. Its complete different thing and has an affect on processing them during glasschanges etc.

Because of the backlight of an LCD you shouldnt use higher temps than 80 degrees on the separator because the backlight has very thin plastic layer and they are going to melt in anyway.

An OLED can be separated without any problems at 90-100 degrees.

Post detailed questions here and I can give you specific input based on my very own experience and that doesnt mean it have to be perfect for you!

heres some short suggestion:

iPhone LCDs separation temp

ip5 to 6 80 degrees
ip6s to 8+ better use 70 degress because the oca is really different! You can easily keep the original pol and dont need to fight with 8222 and pol removing!
Wire should be 0.08

ip X and upwards use 90-95 degrees, use lighter fluid and Qianli Power Tools Triangel or Star for frame removal. In flex area use OCA sheet and put a little drop lighter fluid on it. Take care not to damage the flex coating. For Glue removing use IPA at 90 degree and let it soak 2-3 times then you can put the oca off in one peace. G Remover is a good choice too! But has affect on the bondings but softens the glue much faster.
Wire should be 0.05 or 0.06

For Flat Samsung Oleds use 90 degrees and its no problem. When reach temps over 110 degrees for real the pol begins to get damage. That affects every kind of polarizer!!!

The OCA for the flat Samsung OLEDs is a bit harder. So 0.08 wire is best chpice from my experience or if you are knowing what u are doing 0.1 Thicker wire means less OCA residues to clean of and they can be a nightmare on s6 s7 etc.

For curved OLED screens like s6e s7e s8 and upwards there are very different methods. s6e s7e and s8 models the freezer is the best way. Above wire technique is best.

So if you have a specific model then I can answer in details.

[excessive]

Originally Posted by Patrosh

Sry guys.

I didnt thought that it was a good a idea to post it in details in this thread. From my experience is much more easier to help via whatsapp. Pics and Vids can easily be shared via whatsapp.

Dont have the time to do a vid for every single situation. The question wasnt really detailed at least, so its impossible to find a unique answer.

It depends on the panel your are going to refurb. As we know LCD needs allways a separate lightsource the backlight. An LCD works with crosspolarization that means we have to polarizer. One on the backside of the LCD Panel itself and one on top of the LCD panel.

OLEDs dont need a backlight because they are organic light emitting diodes. Its complete different thing and has an affect on processing them during glasschanges etc.

Because of the backlight of an LCD you shouldnt use higher temps than 80 degrees on the separator because the backlight has very thin plastic layer and they are going to melt in anyway.

An OLED can be separated without any problems at 90-100 degrees.

Post detailed questions here and I can give you specific input based on my very own experience and that doesnt mean it have to be perfect for you!

heres some short suggestion:

iPhone LCDs separation temp

ip5 to 6 80 degrees
ip6s to 8+ better use 70 degress because the oca is really different! You can easily keep the original pol and dont need to fight with 8222 and pol removing!
Wire should be 0.08

ip X and upwards use 90-95 degrees, use lighter fluid and Qianli Power Tools Triangel or Star for frame removal. In flex area use OCA sheet and put a little drop lighter fluid on it. Take care not to damage the flex coating. For Glue removing use IPA at 90 degree and let it soak 2-3 times then you can put the oca off in one peace. G Remover is a good choice too! But has affect on the bondings but softens the glue much faster.
Wire should be 0.05 or 0.06

For Flat Samsung Oleds use 90 degrees and its no problem. When reach temps over 110 degrees for real the pol begins to get damage. That affects every kind of polarizer!!!

The OCA for the flat Samsung OLEDs is a bit harder. So 0.08 wire is best chpice from my experience or if you are knowing what u are doing 0.1 Thicker wire means less OCA residues to clean of and they can be a nightmare on s6 s7 etc.

For curved OLED screens like s6e s7e s8 and upwards there are very different methods. s6e s7e and s8 models the freezer is the best way. Above wire technique is best.

So if you have a specific model then I can answer in details.

Super fantastic post.
That's what people need here

Thanks
X4ce

[donbris]

Did I miss the answer on how to stop the polarizer from coming apart with the glass when the glass is removed?

I have tried freezer method and heat, both ways removed the polarizer with the glass for me. I feel like I am missing something.

[excessive]

Originally Posted by donbris

Did I miss the answer on how to stop the polarizer from coming apart with the glass when the glass is removed?

I have tried freezer method and heat, both ways removed the polarizer with the glass for me. I feel like I am missing something.

how can the polarizer be detouched when using the freezer?

can you post a video?

Sent from my SM-C5000 using Tapatalk

[donbris]

Originally Posted by excessive

how can the polarizer be detouched when using the freezer?

can you post a video?

Sent from my SM-C5000 using Tapatalk

I dont have any more screens to try it on right now.

I've been using dry ice, and the glass with the polarizer comes off with no struggles, but I need a way to just remove the glass.

[excessive]

Originally Posted by donbris

I dont have any more screens to try it on right now.

I've been using dry ice, and the glass with the polarizer comes off with no struggles, but I need a way to just remove the glass.

I don't think dry ice is a good solution. do you have any of the freezers?

[donbris]

Originally Posted by excessive

I don't think dry ice is a good solution. do you have any of the freezers?

No actual freezer I am going to order one of the liquid nitrogen machines.

With the dry ice the glass comes off easy just as seen in the videos where people are using freezers, but the polarizer comes off too.

[Patrosh]

donbris

I guess that you are going to remove the glass from Samsung curved oled? Let us know what model you exactly wanna refurb with this method.

Using dry ice is not a common way to do that. For LCDs like iPhone from 4 to 8+ it doesnt make any sense doing it this way or the freezer way. As I mentioned above an LCD needs a separate light source = the backlight. That means that if you put that guys in a freezer or remove the glass with dry ice it will allways and with condense water in the backlight. You need to replace the backlight.

For LCDs u should use wire method on a normal heatplate and for flat oleds its IMO the best choice too. Remove the bezel and find a good starting point to avoid that the wire gets between polarizer and LCD. For example every iPhone LCD:

If bad cracked use tape to cover the broken glass. Put it on your heatplate on 80 degrees. Remove the plastic frame. Then use an eagle blade and scrape the glue residues on the edges of the corner where u wanna start with your wire.
Then put pressure downwards on the glass and gently slight with the wire between the pol and glass. If you ve a plan and clean surface you will never hit the polarizer. Thats the key.
The thickness of the wire depends on your skills and preferences. For beginner 0,06 or 0,08 is a good value.

Freezer works really good for s6 edge, s7 edge and s8 models but above better use wire. If you are doing Note 9, S9 and above in freezer its easy to split the layers of the panel. For that method you need pressure to avoid the layers to get loosen and trap air inside. If this happens you can put them in your vacuum laminator for 5minutes to get the trapped air out and bond the layers together again. But its better to use wire for panels above note 8!

If need detailed help you should ask a detailed question buddy