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Go Back   GSM-Forum > GSM & CDMA Phones / Tablets Software & Hardware Area > Nokia > Nokia Hardware & Hardware Repair

Nokia Hardware & Hardware Repair all what you need for Hardware Repairing for Nokia Phones. Before writing any thread here try to check the Frequently Asked Questions Section.

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Old 04-29-2004, 01:48   #1 (permalink)
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Glued UEM working solution - continuation


I have changed meny gluted Ic not only UEM`s. My solution is surface grinder or litle 9V power supply boring mashine with grinderstone. Just grind off your Ic: layer after layer till you will see balls from the PCB, when you have grinded your Ic realy flat then you can try to solder your Ic on this grinded balls but that is no 100% solution. Better is if you remove all glue, with hot air station. Set temperature near 180 C degrees and slowly remove glue between bals, dont increase temp becuse you can damage tracks ond pcb. 180 C degrees is perfect temp because dont dissolve fast tins balls and you can remove almost all glue, main essential thing is to remove the biggest glue pieces. After that you can remove rest of glue and tins using Plato-Wick but very queasily. After that you can solder new Ic, with this metod I have repaired more than 20 pcs of phones, 6310 in most cases. Till I have founded solution i have dstroyed 6 pcs of 6310 and one 6100 all with glued UEM`s.
First time it takes long, but if you learn this solutin it goes very easy and fast. Now i need maximum 15-20 to change gluted IC. On the beginnng i tried to pick up gluted Ic in many ways but always PCB was damage, one or two tracks were broken. Plese post your results, Im curios that my solution is working. Here are promised photos taken yesterday:

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 5


BeSt ReGreeDs
BoDziO

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Old 04-29-2004, 08:11   #2 (permalink)
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Links not working...
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Old 04-29-2004, 08:58   #3 (permalink)
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Angry

If link is not working try: my yahoo group


BeSt ReGreeDs
BoDziO

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Old 04-29-2004, 10:42   #4 (permalink)
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@Bodzio: Interesting... but you never destroy pads with the grinder?
I use other method, but not safe... with wnife and hot air... insert knife behind glue and ic... and pull up. (15% times broke pad) and after, remove glue with knife and 180º (like u)

b.r.
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Old 04-29-2004, 13:50   #5 (permalink)
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very nice discription(details)
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Old 04-29-2004, 22:23   #6 (permalink)
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by thecult
@Bodzio: Interesting... but you never destroy pads with the grinder?
I use other method, but not safe... with wnife and hot air... insert knife behind glue and ic... and pull up. (15% times broke pad) and after, remove glue with knife and 180º (like u)

b.r.
No, because I never grind so much till PCB, I leave small layer of glue on PCB, then I remove this slowly with Plato-Wick, you can also remove tin just after you grind off entire Ic with with soldering station. Then your balls are small uder glue and you can scarier grind off glue.

BeSt ReGreeDs
BoDziO

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Old 04-30-2004, 10:38   #7 (permalink)
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@bodzio
ur links are not working men!!!
how can i see ur pictures??
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Old 04-30-2004, 10:49   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks Bodzio, I will try this week. I have Dremmel... but I want first to buy the support platform for a better precision.
@renejeic: go to his yahoo group, sign up as a member and you will download pics withouth problems

b.r.
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Old 05-01-2004, 00:00   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renejeic
@bodzio
ur links are not working men!!!
how can i see ur pictures??
Here are the Pictures in sequence..

Regards
Brs
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1.jpg (44.5 KB, 410 views)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (57.5 KB, 432 views)
File Type: jpg 3.jpg (63.7 KB, 397 views)
File Type: jpg 4.jpg (42.9 KB, 358 views)
File Type: jpg 5.jpg (61.9 KB, 393 views)
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Old 05-01-2004, 00:36   #10 (permalink)
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@medz: great work!

what tool are you using?
details on actual drill "bit" and drill etc aswell would be appriciated.

keep it up man!
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Old 05-01-2004, 03:00   #11 (permalink)
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@Everybody ...

Those photos are Bodzio's Photos from 1 to 5 at the top of the thread , they'r not mine ! . I restores them from my 'temporary internet files ' folder for the persons complaining from dead links
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Old 05-01-2004, 06:31   #12 (permalink)
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hi.

this way is not complete safe 100% cuz it migt reach the efficincy after destroy many pcb and this is my personal cooment
1- the drill is un easy to control
2- the powder from the ic while drilling is goes every where and cuz big mess
3- the components around the uem is very small and near
4- the tip of the drill you use is very expinsive and you can use one tip every 3 or 4 ic's .
5- the old fashion ay is more safe and its take time less than drilling way take .

i m not attach hat wat but advise ppl with what i faced



br.,
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Old 05-01-2004, 13:13   #13 (permalink)
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Yes I add my voice to raheeeeb's , we test it allready ourselfs ( raheeeeb & myself ).
That judjement doesnt come from nothing . Add one important thing , is that the diameter of the balls ( 0.3 mllm ) will not be equall in parallel connecting the IC to the PCB because of drimmelling variable depth from corner to corner . But noproblem it is a good tryall but we may take the risck sometimes
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Old 05-01-2004, 13:35   #14 (permalink)
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I also tried this solution a while ago, and some problems like raheeb and Medz point are true.

Also the powder-dust is in my workshop in every corner, not to mention the health, maybee these IC's are in a "cancer" chemicals (or perhaps the glue?)

For the "cornering" problem I was thinking to buy a support tool that hold the dremel firmly in place (with depth control) In a solderjig, it sould be possible to do the job more accurate
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Old 05-03-2004, 08:50   #15 (permalink)
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@gsmen

That's the way... CNC drill is not so expensive, works much faster and there is no chance to damage board ( unless it's not firmly tighten in seat )... Plus, it has vacuum to suck in all dust...

You can build one easily... Few stepping motors, pc interface and application to control coordinates... Or even you can buy LEGO kit and adapt it to hold modeling drill


BR

Vule
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