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RE-7500 Reworking System & iSolder the Infrared Reworking System - Product By Jovy Systems. & iSolder the intelligent soldering machine |
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04-25-2007, 08:18 | #16 (permalink) |
Banned Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: JMB Age: 49
Posts: 1,226
Member: 6919 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 12 | 1:- Do we have to put the TC near the pcb or touched to the pcb ? 2:- In your video u work with both heater(uppwer and lower) same time. But in manual , it uses the lower hearter and wait for the temp to reach at 80 to 120 C , than rotate the upper hearter and machine enter in the normal mode. and temp goes 180 to 230 C. Also the hights of upper heart= ? Actually i have never used the ir before. usually and most of the time i use the hotair. the idea/technique is different in ir. So i hope u dont mind my questions. Sorry for my bad english. Br |
04-25-2007, 10:48 | #17 (permalink) |
No Life Poster Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: colchester Age: 56
Posts: 578
Member: 134206 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 17 | The heat probe has to touch the part that you are removing. As far as i know you run lower heater first to preheat the board-Then use both top and bottom to reach your tempreture (180-225) The HEIGHT does matter on the top heater-I use it at about 4-5 cm-to close may burn board. |
04-25-2007, 13:04 | #18 (permalink) |
Banned Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: JMB Age: 49
Posts: 1,226
Member: 6919 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 12 | Ok. I have just open the machine. (got it very long ago but was out of the town to use it). Now where to start. I have Assemble it. readed the manual many time. when i power on it. it should show some thing on the screen. but when i power on it it show yellow light on the screen. then a beep. than nothing. I leave it for 10 min in the condition. so it may be heating him self or preparing himself to start work. but nothing. than i power off it and than then power on it again. than i shows "self test ok" ok i wait. but then again screen become yellow or hang. and no button work. i waited for 5 min. and the off it and then again on. Now the screen shows. U..H. Preheat L.H. Refow nothing else. and wait and wait. nothing , Anything i am doing wrong. please help me out. Br |
04-25-2007, 16:58 | #19 (permalink) |
No Life Poster Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: -------- Age: 55
Posts: 1,009
Member: 7062 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 126 | @s4sajii better to contact Jovy-sys support Normally the machine should be operate once you switch it on and machine do the self test and ready to use . BR. Raheeeeb |
05-24-2007, 16:47 | #22 (permalink) |
No Life Poster Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: colchester Age: 56
Posts: 578
Member: 134206 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 17 | The price is about 2000usd And if you want one im sure jovy can send you one http://www.jovy-systems.com/ |
05-24-2007, 19:52 | #23 (permalink) |
No Life Poster Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: -------- Age: 55
Posts: 1,009
Member: 7062 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 126 | Fast process method + Another glued ic desoldering @ All ppl New Video upload to link below http://www.raheeeeb.cellphonerepair.us/Remove%20glued%20ic's/ 1- include how to prepare Jovy Re7500 to fast process (maximum time2 Min.and 70SEC). 2-How easy and safe to deal with mall glued ic rounded with another Glued ic's BR. Raheeeeb |
06-04-2007, 17:02 | #24 (permalink) |
No Life Poster Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: -------- Age: 55
Posts: 1,009
Member: 7062 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 126 | Jovy Re 7500 easy steps removing the flash chip and rap3gv in Nokia n73 Please find below video of removing the two chips easly . Note this is first time use Pcb horzintally so you sholud take about these: 1-Use reflictive tape to exclude any other chips to be reflowed 2-cooling stage after removing the flash chip is a must 3-Use the upper heater 7 cm high over the pcb 4-the thermo cuple prope should be adjusted to place near the chips exactly . http://www.raheeeeb.cellphonerepair.us/ please any more explanation are welcome just send a post about what you need . BR. Raheeeeeb |
06-05-2007, 05:57 | #25 (permalink) | |
Banned Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: JMB Age: 49
Posts: 1,226
Member: 6919 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 12 | Quote:
I have tried many times to contact to Jovy-sys support but none seems to working. i have waited alot i think. Can u help me out ? iam still unable to use the machine. Br | |
06-21-2007, 19:21 | #29 (permalink) |
No Life Poster Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: colchester Age: 56
Posts: 578
Member: 134206 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 17 | Yes great videos raheeeeb im finding them very helpfull !!!!!!!!!! But the main problem you make it look very easy-i still find using the hotair gun much easyer for me |
06-22-2007, 09:55 | #30 (permalink) |
No Life Poster Join Date: May 2001 Location: U.K Age: 53
Posts: 1,425
Member: 4611 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 68 | Granted, he is good. First phone I played with worked fine afterwards. Next 3-4 bits either fell off of the board or didn't power on afterwards. Best thing I did with this station is to either use the silver tape to cover any BGA components that didn't need re-working with the silver tape that came with the station and / or Kapton tape that can be bought from RS. I prime both top and bottom heater on fast reflow for around a minute, then remove the top heater, switch the base heater to reflow and then line the board up with the lazer pointer. Leave everything until 80' C is reached. Then move the top heater into place on fast reflow. The temperature will rise to 150'C quite quickly. Around 30% of this is the direct heat from the lamp and not the board temp. Then I switch the base heater onto fast reflow. Usually within 20-30 seconds the board is ready. Either joysticks, etc are ready to be removed with tweezers or if the component / s you are working on were fluxed, then they are re-flowed by now.. With some makes of phone the bga chips if not insulated from direct heat will literally **** the solder balls through the glue. This just makes more work. Flux gel / paste is best. Normal flux evaporates far too early. For stubborn parts such as a D800 I/O port with the board almost completely covered in Kapton tape I had to heat the board to 250'C and the component wouldn't shift even though plenty of flux had been used. A little solder paste placed on the top managed to remove it at 170'C. I used about 10 or so phones from the graveyard that I have to play with. Different heats, insulation, heights of head, etc. Still have the odd mis-hap but this is relative to the amount of work it does is rare. Using your eyes when the temperature reaches 150'C is still the best guage. Black marker on a visible solder joint very close or on the component you are working on is a great indicator as to when the solder is workable or not. |
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