Trace Full short Without the Heat method?

[NickTheGeek]

Originally Posted by NickTheGeek

I checked cap c357 and there is no short to ground and the cap looks fine.

As hexpope said "its like looking for a needle in a hay stack" if i just start pulling components off of the board and this is not the approach i want to take.

I bit the bullet and have purchase a bench supply. When It arrives i will report back.

After thinking about it i am curious as to know what made you "finally" change c357?

What fault finding method did you use?, Did you heat the board or notice c357 shorted with multimeter?, etc etc

Its all good in suggesting for me to change/remove this cap but you have not included the most important information, what made you "finally" decide to remove said cap?

[tarakhail]

Yeah used freezing spray and connect set to power supply this was first to heat check y o u tube ipad rehab full short method


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NickTheGeek]

Originally Posted by tarakhail

Yeah used freezing spray and connect set to power supply this was first to heat check y o u tube ipad rehab full short method


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks but my thread was about "no power supply available" i have since purchased one because like you i have researched the ipad rehab videos and have bit the bullet. I can use this method once it arrives but not before. thanks

[hexpope]

Originally Posted by NickTheGeek

Thanks but my thread was about "no power supply available" i have since purchased one because like you i have researched the ipad rehab videos and have bit the bullet. I can use this method once it arrives but not before. thanks

What type of Lab PSU did you go for ?

[NickTheGeek]

Originally Posted by tarakhail

Yeah used freezing spray and connect set to power supply this was first to heat check y o u tube ipad rehab full short method


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info, what type freezing spray should i look for please, maybe an ebay link?
Does it have to be a certain type?

[NickTheGeek]

Originally Posted by hexpope

What type of Lab PSU did you go for ?

I went for one with a range of 0-30v, the reason being is that i will require it in future to power laptops and other more power hungry devices.

The model reads "QW-MS305D" it has adjustment for both current and voltage, its by no means top of the range but should serve the purpose just fine.
I received it today and will be experimenting later this evening, if i cannot find the heat by touch i will have to invest in the freezing spray, i will try alcohol first though, i might get lucky

[hexpope]

Originally Posted by NickTheGeek

I went for one with a range of 0-30v, the reason being is that i will require it in future to power laptops and other more power hungry devices.

The model reads "QW-MS305D" it has adjustment for both current and voltage, its by no means top of the range but should serve the purpose just fine.
I received it today and will be experimenting later this evening, if i cannot find the heat by touch i will have to invest in the freezing spray, i will try alcohol first though, i might get lucky

I went for the same too. Although I really wanted the Rigol PSU, but money at the time didn't permit. Here is the model I have and it works perfectl. Doesn't over shoot on voltage either when switching the rail on like some cheap PSU's

Velleman LABPS3005D

[NickTheGeek]

Well the good news is that the heat directed me straight to the faulty cap and i managed to get the phone booted.

Bad news is no front camera, 1 leg and trace gone in the board so i can't make a connection to fix it haha.

I am not too bothered though guys, the phone had a short and as this one of my first attempts i am rather happy with the outcome

Hexpope
I am not sure if this is normal but i have to measure the voltage coming out of mine and adjust it, when i set the voltage to 3.8v and measured with a multimeter i get more like 4.6, i reduce it gradually and it supplies 3.8v when set to approx 3.3v - 3.4v, this surely can't be normal?
I was thinking about if it may be faulty and if i should return it, after all if i have to measure the voltage every time i am setting it and cannot rely on the LCD display it kind of defies the point a little. Can you measure yours and compare the PSU setting on LCD display with what you get on the multimeter please?

[NickTheGeek]

Well the good news is that the heat directed me straight to the faulty cap and i managed to get the phone booted.

Bad news is no front camera, 1 leg and trace gone in the board so i can't make a connection to fix it haha.

I am not too bothered though guys, the phone had a short and as this one of my first attempts i am rather happy with the outcome

Hexpope
I am not sure if this is normal but i have to measure the voltage coming out of mine and adjust it, when i set the voltage to 3.8v and measured with a multimeter i get more like 4.6, i reduce it gradually and it supplies 3.8v when set to approx 3.3v - 3.4v, this surely can't be normal?
I was thinking about if it may be faulty and if i should return it, after all if i have to measure the voltage every time i am setting it and cannot rely on the LCD display it kind of defies the point a little. Can you measure yours and compare the PSU setting on LCD display with what you get on the multimeter please?

[NickTheGeek]

Well the good news is that the heat directed me straight to the faulty cap and i managed to get the phone booted.

Bad news is no front camera, 1 leg and trace gone in the board so i can't make a connection to fix it haha.

I am not too bothered though guys, the phone had a short and as this one of my first attempts i am rather happy with the outcome

Hexpope
I am not sure if this is normal but i have to measure the voltage coming out of mine and adjust it, when i set the voltage to 3.8v and measured with a multimeter i get more like 4.6, i reduce it gradually and it supplies 3.8v when set to approx 3.3v - 3.4v, this surely can't be normal?
I was thinking about if it may be faulty and if i should return it, after all if i have to measure the voltage every time i am setting it and cannot rely on the LCD display it kind of defies the point a little. Can you measure yours and compare the PSU setting on LCD display with what you get on the multimeter please?

[NickTheGeek]

Well the good news is that the heat directed me straight to the faulty cap and i managed to get the phone booted.

Bad news is no front camera, 1 leg and trace gone in the board so i can't make a connection to fix it haha.

I am not too bothered though guys, the phone had a short and as this one of my first attempts i am rather happy with the outcome

Hexpope
I am not sure if this is normal but i have to measure the voltage coming out of mine and adjust it, when i set the voltage to 3.8v and measured with a multimeter i get more like 4.6, i reduce it gradually and it supplies 3.8v when set to approx 3.3v - 3.4v, this surely can't be normal?
I was thinking about if it may be faulty and if i should return it, after all if i have to measure the voltage every time i am setting it and cannot rely on the LCD display it kind of defies the point a little. Can you measure yours and compare the PSU setting on LCD display with what you get on the multimeter please?

[NickTheGeek]

ignore this one, didnt post and then was there after i retyped :?

[hexpope]

Yeah that's a bit off to be honest and you should return it. But if your stuck for time etc.. There is trim pots on the PCB that you can calibrate it. (PCB that holds the 7 segment displays) But be sure to use a good well known meter like Agilent or Fluke and then calibrate it from that.

So it ended up to be a cap that you never found via multimeter test ? if you need screen shots of that rail I can do it and post it for you. So you know here to look and link with jumpers. (Burned traces)

[NickTheGeek]

Originally Posted by hexpope

Yeah that's a bit off to be honest and you should return it. But if your stuck for time etc.. There is trim pots on the PCB that you can calibrate it. (PCB that holds the 7 segment displays) But be sure to use a good well known meter like Agilent or Fluke and then calibrate it from that.

So it ended up to be a cap that you never found via multimeter test ? if you need screen shots of that rail I can do it and post it for you. So you know here to look and link with jumpers. (Burned traces)

I thought it was off too but first PSU so was unsure, picture showing accuracy being sent to the ebay seller and i either want a replacement or my money back and i will buy different one.

and yes i must of missed the cap, whoops lol, I appreciate the thought bro but this one is gone now, i am on to the next subject haha thanks again though for your input.

[jimchu316]

the phone before water damged?

if I, will to check C1201_RF (other side battery socket), C505_RF etc (near CPU)

if not working, check below yellow points: