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Go Back   GSM-Forum > GSM & CDMA Phones Hardware Repair Area > Hardware Equipments for GSM > RE-7500 Reworking System & iSolder

RE-7500 Reworking System & iSolder the Infrared Reworking System - Product By Jovy Systems. & iSolder the intelligent soldering machine

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Old 11-22-2010, 17:08   #91 (permalink)
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Great thread! has anyone had luck repairing lifted pads after a bga removal?
Are some pads dummy pads? I have noticed some pads don't connect to anything.

I tried buying some epoxy remover from Ebay but it didn't work at all.
I experimented with paint thinner this weekend and it melts the epoxy in about 15 minutes but I have to recoat the epoxy with paint thinner about 3 times.

some bga's have the epoxy way under the chip and they are hard to remove causing more lifted pads.

How to fix these pads? anyone?
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Old 11-25-2010, 09:03   #92 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willgny View Post
Great thread! has anyone had luck repairing lifted pads after a bga removal?
Are some pads dummy pads? I have noticed some pads don't connect to anything.

I tried buying some epoxy remover from Ebay but it didn't work at all.
I experimented with paint thinner this weekend and it melts the epoxy in about 15 minutes but I have to recoat the epoxy with paint thinner about 3 times.

some bga's have the epoxy way under the chip and they are hard to remove causing more lifted pads.

How to fix these pads? anyone?
we have done lot of BGA pad fix and it is working, your soldering skills should be top class to re construct bga pad tracks and will take lots of time. most of the service engineers while testing BGA IC's for contact, dry solder problems they press the bga ic either on the top or from the behind with lot of pressure holding the motherboard unevenly, this causes some times the bga pads getting released from the board and pads gets lifted while removing the chip, in some cases low temperature while bga ic removal will lift the bga pad.

there will be some are dummy pads on the board, epoxy glue removal is useless, i have posted glue removal video on the forum download and check if it helps you

B/R
Pentu
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Old 11-25-2010, 10:00   #93 (permalink)
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Hello,

Actually I have both reball station and direct heat stencils, I prefer direct heat stencils and hot air for reballing (100% success every time), removing is easy, I use a ultrasonic cleaner, with isopropyl alchohol. After 1-2 min it's very easy to remove the stencil.
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Old 11-27-2010, 02:31   #94 (permalink)
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I use direct heat stencil as well but I just heat up the stencil a little to remove the screen or remove it while the stencil is still hot. Maybe 30 seconds after you're done reballing, the balls should be solid and you should be able to remove the stencil.
Does anyone have instructions on fixing the pads?
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:04   #95 (permalink)
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To remove the direct heat stencil , you should be sure that all balls melted with pads. Then, using Flux remover is the best not anyother solvent might effect the package surface.
Direct heat stencil has a life time of 6 to 10 times. Before, getting deformed. It is consumed by use.
For stencil Life time, you should not be hurry and use your tools with enough height - tool might vary between IR,Hotair or heat gun.

Have Fun
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:01   #96 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raheeeeb View Post
To remove the direct heat stencil , you should be sure that all balls melted with pads. Then, using Flux remover is the best not anyother solvent might effect the package surface.
Direct heat stencil has a life time of 6 to 10 times. Before, getting deformed. It is consumed by use.
For stencil Life time, you should not be hurry and use your tools with enough height - tool might vary between IR,Hotair or heat gun.

Have Fun
I am going to disagree. I have been using my direct heat stencils for 2 years. They will last a lifetime if used correctly. Use whatever stencils work with you. They are both adequate for the job.
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Old 12-07-2010, 11:16   #97 (permalink)
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Hey,

great threat here.

I also repair laptops and i have a repair system from martin (hot air and infrared). But often the repaired laptops come back after a one or two months. I think i have a cleaning problem.

But also i hear from a professional repair company that the gpu often is internal faulty, and this is not fixable.

Now i want to try brand new gpu's, but i don't find anything. Did anyone know where i can byu gpu's they don't have this problem?

Greetings
Nicpoe
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:57   #98 (permalink)
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I can get most brand new GPUs.

What models do you repair and which ones are you getting back? Where are you based?
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:22   #99 (permalink)
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I have at the moment 5 brand new gpu's from china. They are manufactured in Korea, the other ones in Taiwan. Which type or label has the new gpu's?

I repair Laptops with GF-7200, 7400, 7600 and G84/G86 GPU's in Germany.
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Old 12-08-2010, 10:39   #100 (permalink)
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please can someone explain how to use "heat diirectly stencil"
i have bouth them, but i'm scared about removing a stancil after reball.
thanks
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Old 12-09-2010, 11:33   #101 (permalink)
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BGA Removal

Anybody else having trouble removing some BGA chips. I seem to come across some BGA's; even without the epoxy around them, that just don't seem to want to come off the board even at 240 degrees. As a test i had the temp of the top IR heater at 240 Degrees and the bottom heater at 350 degrees for over a minute and a half and the chip would not budge.

Any ideas on why some chips seem to be fixed solid to the board while others flow easily once temp reaches 217 degrees.
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Old 12-09-2010, 15:31   #102 (permalink)
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koko224 - try bringing the board temp to about 160C before appling the upper heat. Make sure that plenty of flux is under the chip. It should come off as soon as you hit 218C. If you have difficulty getting board to 160C with just the lower heater you will have to lower the fixture or raise the Jovy unit.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:38   #103 (permalink)
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BGA Removal

Hi Dan,

Thanks for the advise. However, I can't have the machine any higher than it already is. I just thought it's a bit strange how the majority of BGA's will flow fine once 217 degrees is reached, but then every now and then the exact same chip on a different board won't move at all. I was thinking maybe there was a different kind of alloy being used on these chips that need much higher temperatures, but not sure.
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Old 12-18-2010, 13:45   #104 (permalink)
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Hi to all.

I have an T862++ and i'm having some problems.

Do i need to reach 160ºC on bottom of the board or on top (gpu)?
On the upside i only can reach +/- 90ºC.

Until now i only could lift one gpu correcly... i already killed 3 dv6000 boards.

Regards,
R
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Old 12-18-2010, 22:45   #105 (permalink)
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Roadkiler ... I have an T862 and up to know the temperatur on surface of the board is also +/- 90°C . But I am able to remove the chips.

It could be that some parameters from your t862++ are not ok.

Which parameters do you use for IR Heat Lamp?
Which lens do you use (28mm 38mm 48mm)?
What distance between Ir Heat Lamp and board do you use?

With the following parameters I have successfull removed the chips from DV6000 board.

Nvidia NF-SPP-100-N-A2
BGA size:25x25mm
Preheater: 200°C
Distance between IR Lamp and board:45mm
Lens: no
IR Heat Lamp Temp:270°C
Time to remove chip:120s
Flux:yes

Nvidia GF-GO7200-B-N-A3
BGA size:33x33mm
Preheater: 200°C
Distance between IR Lamp and board:45mm
Lens: no
IR Heat Lamp Temp:270°C
Time to remove chip:120-150s
Flux:yes

You could use those data and try them with your t862++.

BR ThomasP
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