iphone 4 battery connector - Page 2 - GSM-Forum

Hobson · 05-04-2011, 09:35

Brown Schematic.
If you have a wire soldered to the pad at "C" check that you have continuation between the end of your wire and the post on the end of capicitor "D"

repeat exercise with "A" and "B" checked tht you have not accidentally earthed them.

It took me 3 attemps and I found that wire glue did not work and i actually managed to solder on to the end of the capicitors. One of my failed attempts was when i did not make a good connection with "D" and the phone would restart every couple of mins and the battery would not charge.

vitorkosta · 05-04-2011, 12:00

Hi there! Thanks for your quick reply!
Can you please post a photo of your solution!
In my board the 1st pad and the 4st did not get loose from the board, they just broke, and they are now soldered!

The 2nd pad and the third came apart from the board, so they are now soldered to the corresponded gold dots "C" and "A"!

My questions are:

what do you mean by continuation between the C and D??? i think now i have just to connect a wire to the 2nd pad to "D" right and the same for the other pad and "B"

Have you broken the tiny gold metal part on the board in order to make a hole and pass the wires to D and B??? (the yelow circunference on your shecmatic!

Sorry for my next question, but what do you mean by: "checked tht you have not accidentally earthed them" what do i have to take carefull with!?

Once again thanks you!

MY IMAGE

ORANGE CIRCLES - they are soldered!

GREEN LINES - the battery terminal is connected to the golden circles on the board!

YELLOW CIRCLE - is the hole that i have to do to pass the wires??? right!?

RED AND BLUE WIRE - they have to be continuos, but my question is: start on the battery terminal??? and how do you manage to pass them under the battery connector??? and what kind of wire do i use?![IMG]

[/IMG]

Hobson · 05-05-2011, 09:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by vitorkosta

Hi there! Thanks for your quick reply!
Can you please post a photo of your solution!
Camera won't take good close ups so can't do that.

In my board the 1st pad and the 4st did not get loose from the board, they just broke, and they are now soldered!

The 2nd pad and the third came apart from the board, so they are now soldered to the corresponded gold dots "C" and "A"!
Ok, that should be fine,

My questions are:

what do you mean by continuation between the C and D??? i think now i have just to connect a wire to the 2nd pad to "D" right and the same for the other pad and "B"
"i mean use a meter set on Ohms and make sure that it reads zero resistance between the two spots" A-B and C-D.

The way i have wired mine is by attached 4 wires directly from the battery terminals to the four spots. (i have sliced off the actual connector on the battery to reveal just 4 handy soldering spots)

one to the earth pad, one the the 4th pad, and the other two to the end of the capicitors B and D.

Have you broken the tiny gold metal part on the board in order to make a hole and pass the wires to D and B??? (the yelow circunference on your shecmatic!
No, I have cut away a little bit of the cage from both sides which will free a small gold eyelet hole which helps to hold the wires when soldering

Sorry for my next question, but what do you mean by: "checked tht you have not accidentally earthed them" what do i have to take carefull with!?
that you are soldered only to the gold disc contact and haven't accidentaly connected to the surround baord as well as the disc.

Once again thanks you!

MY IMAGE

ORANGE CIRCLES - they are soldered!

GREEN LINES - the battery terminal is connected to the golden circles on the board!

YELLOW CIRCLE - is the hole that i have to do to pass the wires??? right!?

RED AND BLUE WIRE - they have to be continuos, but my question is: start on the battery terminal??? and how do you manage to pass them under the battery connector??? and what kind of wire do i use?![IMG][/IMG]

I'm trying to see from your pisture exactly where you ahve connected here. Hav eyou connected to the front line of dots or the ones on closest to the chips etc? The line of gold dots along the leading edge of the board are not where you should be connecting if you have..
I shall look for an image which explains better... and post it soon i hope

vitorkosta · 05-05-2011, 12:36

[IMG]

[/IMG]

In this first pic you can see that the terminal is soldered to the 2nd and 3rd pad (gold dots in front)

In the right corner is where i have to make the hole right?

Where did you cut the battery and make the 4 connection to solder the wires directly???

in this pic, i have to cut the cage in the yelow marks right? and the red circle is my hole?

this are my all connections that i have to do???
only the blue and green ones, because i already have the red and yellow connections!

Thank you so much for your support, and please tell what to do now!

You can use my photos ok?

Hobson · 05-05-2011, 13:13

Do you have a meter?
test the pin 3 on the battery connect and the end of the capicitor in your blue circle. It should read zero. do the same with pin 2 and the end of the other capicitor in your yellow circle.

If you get a reading of no resistance,zero, then you will not have to make any jumpers. and it means your two middle pins are now connected ok.

using the capicitors are only need if you CANNOT use the gold circles behind the battery terminal. In your case i think you may be over complicating your fix. You might only need to join the battery directly to the Gold circle pads you are using and ignore all the other alternative contacts.

test the meter first because that will tell you if your two soldered spots are good or not.

The battery- Just slide a dull blade beneath the plastic terminal and the flat metal backing part to leave just the pads. You can see the pads already in your battetry photo. so just remove the plasic connection part. It means that if you ever need to replace the battery you will need to solder a new one in but hey, thats nothing new with apple products right.

Hobson · 05-05-2011, 13:15

The circle you hvae highlighted is correct, once the cage is snipped a little away from the back and front, you will ahve that eyelet clear and you can use it to feed a couple of wires through and hold in place easily. But.. as i say, you may not need to do any of that if your meter readings are good.

vitorkosta · 05-05-2011, 18:14

Hi Hobson! Thank you so much for your help!

I don not have a meter but i have a friend that does! I´m going to test if the result is zero! Than i will say something!

Everything in the phone is working well! The problem is that it does not charge and reboots it self every 3 minutes! Maybe the 2nd pad is not well soldered, this pad corresponds to the capacitator "D" that gave you the same error before right?!

vitorkosta · 05-05-2011, 23:27

Hi again!

My meter readings are almost all ok!
The reading from "A" to "B" is the only one that did not work, i am going to do a resolder from the battery connector and the gold ring "A"! I think that is possible right?!

Hobson · 05-06-2011, 08:12

yeah, if A-B is not zero then that's why you are getting the reboot. It will not charge and every few mins will start up again. you more than likely have a bad solder on the gold spot or have accidentally earthed the gold spot with the mainboard.

If all else fails. remove that connection and solder a wire directly from "B" to the battery pin or solder pad if you are wiring the battry directly in.

Hobson · 05-06-2011, 08:17

Alternative path for missing middle contacts here: http://www.ipod-rescue.com/ebay/ipho...ery-routes.jpg

GSMan · 05-06-2011, 08:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hobson

To clarify. you are connecting to the first and last of the bank of capacitors from the above photo.

Hi
the correct points are at the other side of 2 parts B-D .If you sold at these points doing by pass from circuit these parts but there isn't very important
BR
GabiRo

Hobson · 05-06-2011, 10:37

Really? Hmm, i thought i checked for continuity from the other ends and didn't get it. Oh well, all works fine now. maybe someone will try that way as well.
Great find by the way GSMan. Thumbs up.

michaelmacg · 05-15-2011, 03:46

What kind of wire should I use to connect "D" to "C"? The people at radio shack said that the wire may not hold up to the heat from soldering. Would wire glue be better? Thank you.

Hobson · 05-23-2011, 10:18

I used some single strand model railway layout wire, It looks like this but i can't tell if this is the same or not. I can't remember the make, i think it was Kylar or someting like that.
eBay.ie: Layout Wire. RED - 10m Coil 7/0.2mm PVC insulated NEW (item 110624701882 end time 12-Jun-11 11:09:50 BST)

lookitzloy · 06-17-2011, 05:48

Thanks, Got it done with some 30ga kynar wire. Can get pics up later if anyone wants.

05-04-2011, 12:00	#17 (permalink)
vitorkosta Junior Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 6 Member: 1568979 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 1	Hi there! Thanks for your quick reply! Can you please post a photo of your solution! In my board the 1st pad and the 4st did not get loose from the board, they just broke, and they are now soldered! The 2nd pad and the third came apart from the board, so they are now soldered to the corresponded gold dots "C" and "A"! My questions are: what do you mean by continuation between the C and D??? i think now i have just to connect a wire to the 2nd pad to "D" right and the same for the other pad and "B" Have you broken the tiny gold metal part on the board in order to make a hole and pass the wires to D and B??? (the yelow circunference on your shecmatic! Sorry for my next question, but what do you mean by: "checked tht you have not accidentally earthed them" what do i have to take carefull with!? Once again thanks you! MY IMAGE ORANGE CIRCLES - they are soldered! GREEN LINES - the battery terminal is connected to the golden circles on the board! YELLOW CIRCLE - is the hole that i have to do to pass the wires??? right!? RED AND BLUE WIRE - they have to be continuos, but my question is: start on the battery terminal??? and how do you manage to pass them under the battery connector??? and what kind of wire do i use?![IMG][/IMG]

05-05-2011, 12:36	#19 (permalink)
vitorkosta Junior Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 6 Member: 1568979 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 1	[IMG][/IMG] In this first pic you can see that the terminal is soldered to the 2nd and 3rd pad (gold dots in front) In the right corner is where i have to make the hole right? Where did you cut the battery and make the 4 connection to solder the wires directly??? in this pic, i have to cut the cage in the yelow marks right? and the red circle is my hole? this are my all connections that i have to do??? only the blue and green ones, because i already have the red and yellow connections! Thank you so much for your support, and please tell what to do now! You can use my photos ok?

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05-04-2011, 09:35	#16 (permalink)
Hobson Freak Poster Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Galway, Ireland Posts: 276 Member: 1508411 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 36	Brown Schematic. If you have a wire soldered to the pad at "C" check that you have continuation between the end of your wire and the post on the end of capicitor "D" repeat exercise with "A" and "B" checked tht you have not accidentally earthed them. It took me 3 attemps and I found that wire glue did not work and i actually managed to solder on to the end of the capicitors. One of my failed attempts was when i did not make a good connection with "D" and the phone would restart every couple of mins and the battery would not charge.

05-05-2011, 13:13	#20 (permalink)
Hobson Freak Poster Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Galway, Ireland Posts: 276 Member: 1508411 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 36	Do you have a meter? test the pin 3 on the battery connect and the end of the capicitor in your blue circle. It should read zero. do the same with pin 2 and the end of the other capicitor in your yellow circle. If you get a reading of no resistance,zero, then you will not have to make any jumpers. and it means your two middle pins are now connected ok. using the capicitors are only need if you CANNOT use the gold circles behind the battery terminal. In your case i think you may be over complicating your fix. You might only need to join the battery directly to the Gold circle pads you are using and ignore all the other alternative contacts. test the meter first because that will tell you if your two soldered spots are good or not. The battery- Just slide a dull blade beneath the plastic terminal and the flat metal backing part to leave just the pads. You can see the pads already in your battetry photo. so just remove the plasic connection part. It means that if you ever need to replace the battery you will need to solder a new one in but hey, thats nothing new with apple products right.

05-05-2011, 13:15	#21 (permalink)
Hobson Freak Poster Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Galway, Ireland Posts: 276 Member: 1508411 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 36	The circle you hvae highlighted is correct, once the cage is snipped a little away from the back and front, you will ahve that eyelet clear and you can use it to feed a couple of wires through and hold in place easily. But.. as i say, you may not need to do any of that if your meter readings are good.

05-05-2011, 18:14	#22 (permalink)
vitorkosta Junior Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 6 Member: 1568979 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 1	Hi Hobson! Thank you so much for your help! I don not have a meter but i have a friend that does! I´m going to test if the result is zero! Than i will say something! Everything in the phone is working well! The problem is that it does not charge and reboots it self every 3 minutes! Maybe the 2nd pad is not well soldered, this pad corresponds to the capacitator "D" that gave you the same error before right?!

05-05-2011, 23:27	#23 (permalink)
vitorkosta Junior Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 6 Member: 1568979 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 1	Hi again! My meter readings are almost all ok! The reading from "A" to "B" is the only one that did not work, i am going to do a resolder from the battery connector and the gold ring "A"! I think that is possible right?!

05-06-2011, 08:12	#24 (permalink)
Hobson Freak Poster Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Galway, Ireland Posts: 276 Member: 1508411 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 36	yeah, if A-B is not zero then that's why you are getting the reboot. It will not charge and every few mins will start up again. you more than likely have a bad solder on the gold spot or have accidentally earthed the gold spot with the mainboard. If all else fails. remove that connection and solder a wire directly from "B" to the battery pin or solder pad if you are wiring the battry directly in.

05-06-2011, 08:17	#25 (permalink)
Hobson Freak Poster Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Galway, Ireland Posts: 276 Member: 1508411 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 36	Alternative path for missing middle contacts here: http://www.ipod-rescue.com/ebay/ipho...ery-routes.jpg

05-06-2011, 10:37	#27 (permalink)
Hobson Freak Poster Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Galway, Ireland Posts: 276 Member: 1508411 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 36	Really? Hmm, i thought i checked for continuity from the other ends and didn't get it. Oh well, all works fine now. maybe someone will try that way as well. Great find by the way GSMan. Thumbs up.

05-15-2011, 03:46	#28 (permalink)
michaelmacg Junior Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 1 Member: 1574648 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 0	What kind of wire should I use to connect "D" to "C"? The people at radio shack said that the wire may not hold up to the heat from soldering. Would wire glue be better? Thank you.

05-23-2011, 10:18	#29 (permalink)
Hobson Freak Poster Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Galway, Ireland Posts: 276 Member: 1508411 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 36	I used some single strand model railway layout wire, It looks like this but i can't tell if this is the same or not. I can't remember the make, i think it was Kylar or someting like that. eBay.ie: Layout Wire. RED - 10m Coil 7/0.2mm PVC insulated NEW (item 110624701882 end time 12-Jun-11 11:09:50 BST)

06-17-2011, 05:48	#30 (permalink)
lookitzloy Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 12 Member: 211183 Status: Offline Thanks Meter: 0	Thanks, Got it done with some 30ga kynar wire. Can get pics up later if anyone wants.