ipod 4 restore error 3194 in all files any solution
[email protected] plllzzzzzzzzzzz mail us THANKS in advance.............::confused::confused::confused ::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused ::confused::confused::confused::confused:

error 3194 means you don't have shsh files for that firmware you are trying to restore. Did you ever save any shsh files?

If you're not sure download tiny umbrella from here

Once downloaded connect your ipod to the pc and open the tiny umbrella application (you need java installed first)
Then go to advnaced and tick request SHSH from cydia checkbox
Then push save SHSH.

This will show you what firmwares you are eligible to restore to

Hey Wites,

I have this rather odd problem on an iPhone 3GS. It only powers on using usb (either connected to PC or wall charger) but doesn't power on on battery
When it powers on will restart every 10 seconds.

If you try to restore the phone gives error 20 but this is not important for now I think.

I checked continuity on Battery Fuse (R35) and it shows closed however on top of the fuse was missing C11 (27pF) I replaced it, on schema it looks like it's coming from Batt SWI line?

Nothing is getting hot (I checked with lips the SMP3i and PMIC)

Any ideas?

Hi
Phone not see battery,is battery charged?
How much omh show fuse?
Check between Vbat and GND if not short.

Hey Wites sorry for the delay to reply but was out.

Here are the answers:
Battery fully charged shows 3.9V
Fuse show 0.03 ohm
And vbat to gnd not shorting
Red vbat, black gnd: 1750ohm
Black vbat, red gnd: 450ohm

Yes the phone is sort of not seeing the battery, as I said capacitor C11 on battery SWI line was missing but now I replaced with a 27pF Cap

Some more checks:
No cracks and no heat and no water corrosion
All quartz seems soldered good

Should I check with power supply for any current?

Check charging coil L9 if good/beep.
Can you show please what cap you replaced?

Charging coil L9 is beeping so that's good at least.
Attachment 1 shows the C11 capacitor replaced (it is not soldered straight but the connection is good checked with fuse and TP43)

Did you try other battery?
Check with battery if at fuse present 3.7V.

Yes I tried another battery.
But I checked with multimeter both testing batteries and they are showing 0.09V :confused:. Could you please show me how to charge with the dc power supply?

Also when tried to put now again the logicboard back into the case and tightened the battery screw of the board white smoke came out:confused: Did it fry the C11 capacitor since now it is shorting

To charge connect red to + black to - gnd begin with 1.5V rise not more than 4V untill it charges.
What screw you tighten show please?
Remove cap is not needed.

Oh no, now the problem is getting bigger :(...tried to charge battery like you said and after like 30 mins the battery started to show 3.84V on multimeter. So I inserted the board back to case and tightened the screw the one under the do not remove sticker to make sure that there is contact between board and battery. Suddenly the cap started to output a white smoke.

The short happened because for some reason the vbat and gnd board terminals are shorting (0 ohm). (The vbat and gnd werent shorting before I tried to charge the battery) Any idea how to remove short between vbat and gnd? What could have gone wrong during charging? I made sure not to exceed 3.7V

You charged battery with board in place?
I told remove that cap if short remain search for heat.
And don't solder back any cap.

No I charged the battery on its own.
The cap is removed but short still remain on the cap solder prints even on the vbat and gnd terminals.
Also short between both green fuse terminals and gnd :confused: does this mean fuse dead?
I noticed heat near the battery terminals
Please tell me that the board is not dead completely :(

No not dead find exact location of heat with your lips,connect with supply from 1V rise until 3.7V.

You mean I power on the phone using the power supply instead battery?
I hope its not a burnt SMP3i IC? :confused:

What should I set maximum current (Amps) on the power supply?