Nvidia GPU chip problem

[Trion]

Find out more here about solder preforms: Emulation Technology - Lab & Rework Accessories > SolderQuik Ball Grid Array Preforms

By a rigid aluminium screen he means an aluminium plate or flat piece of aluminium to keep under the preform.


Best regards.

[geniusmiki]

can someone tell me if these are good as preform?87 stencil template MCP67M-A2 MCP67MV-A2 ATI 1100 1150 su eBay.it Professional Tools, Industrial Supply MRO, Business Industrial

they are "heat directly stencil"

thanks

[Deusjevoo]

Originally Posted by geniusmiki

can someone tell me if these are good as preform?87 stencil template MCP67M-A2 MCP67MV-A2 ATI 1100 1150 su eBay.it Professional Tools, Industrial Supply MRO, Business Industrial

they are "heat directly stencil"

thanks

Don't use them.
If you want to reball go for a reball kit with non direct heat stencils.
Like the blue 90mm with or without handles.

The direct heat stencils are a pain to remove from the bga after soldering.
Read somewhere they need to be replaced after 15-20 times of use.

Haven't used them myself, got it from 2-3 persons that did use them.
They don't advise to use them.


Regards,

[Raheeeeb]

@Deusjevoo

what you mean by "Like the blue 90mm with or without handles."

Thx.

[Deusjevoo]

Originally Posted by Raheeeeb

@Deusjevoo

what you mean by "Like the blue 90mm with or without handles."

Thx.

There are different models of reballing station.
Taking different size of stencils, 800mm, 90mm or 100mm.


80mmx80mm without handles:
eBay.com.sg: 80X80 NG82915GMS QG82915GMS NQ82915GMS Stencil Template (item 250473229295 end time Sep 21, 2010 07:37:16 SGT)

90mmx90mm with handles:
eBay.com.sg: 107 Stencil Reball Kits G86-630-A2 G86-770-A2 MCP67M-A2 (item 190422090336 end time Sep 20, 2010 23:36:36 SGT)

Is the size really important?
Don't know, I have the 90mm version, as I thought bigger size is bigger stencils possible is more future proof.
There is a 100mmx100m version also now.

Hope this helps you out?
If not, just ask...

Regards,

[pentu]

Originally Posted by Deusjevoo

Don't use them.
If you want to reball go for a reball kit with non direct heat stencils.
Like the blue 90mm with or without handles.

The direct heat stencils are a pain to remove from the bga after soldering.
Read somewhere they need to be replaced after 15-20 times of use.

Haven't used them myself, got it from 2-3 persons that did use them.
They don't advise to use them.


Regards,

I use direct heat stencils for reballing form more than a year with very good results rather i had difficulty in reballing kit what you recommend, i use solder paste for reballing with the direct heat stencil. i bought this on ebay from summers bga tools store. the quality of the direct heat stencil is very good it does not loose shape easily also. can be used many times.

regards

[geniusmiki]

i have a reballing "machine" with 90 mm stencil, model blu anodized.

i have the problem that balls walk and meet others during heating.

so i want to use direcly heat preform.

[Dan Collins]

I gave up on the blue stencil holder kit. Started with that almost threw my system away with frustration and finally moved to preforms. Now I get 100% yield. But don't think the preforms are easy either. I had some work to do with them as well. I built my own fixtures that can hold the BGA, preform, and the screen I mentioned earlier. The screen is simply a piece of aluminum cut to the same size as the BGA and is placed against the preform to keep it from pulling off the BGA. The screen is rigid and has many holes in it to allow plenty of heat to pass through it. I just put the T/C on the screen and set to 190C-200C.
The other important thing to mention is you need to use rosin flux paste that is for leaded, (I only use 63/37 balls with preforms) and not a no-clean. You need an aggressive flux with preforms. I use Qualitek PF-400.
Hope this helps

[Deusjevoo]

Think in the end you just have to use what works best for you.
Like I said, haven't used direct heat stencils myself.
More giving a users opionion that had both.
Maybe the quality of stencils?
(Although I think they come frome same manufacturer)

It really works well with solderpaste?
Is the stencil made so that you get the right volume of solderpaste on the chip?
Making balls of the correct size?
Can get them off easily when done?
Works with infrared?
Or does it need hot air?
Tutorial or good movie about it?

Maybe I shoud give it a try?

Regards,

[davidrocastle]

Hi all, can i just say that this is an excellent thread started and i hope it continues.

I am very interested in the method of reballing to fix a common problem that exists with these motherboards. Having fixed numerous machines through software/hardware related problems i have become fascinated by the approach and attitude of people towards motherboard failure - buy a new machine. I am therefore interested in correcting the BGA problem that exists with models HP model dv6000, dv2000, F500 etc... I have tried reheating approach which is dismal at best providing a constant flow of meaningless rework. Also i have bought refurbished motherboards online which have highly unreliable.

I am therefore looking to maybe purchase the following:
TAI'AN PUHUI T870A Infrared Rework Station (i don't have the available funds for Jovy)
Leaded solder balls
Preforms
anything else???

and using a lot patience of trial and error to somehow provide a reliable service. I am also wondering could the function of this Rework station would be suitable for fixing dead motherboards not only BGA rework?

Could anyone offer any advice in this area?

[Raheeeeb]

To PLL usinr solder quick :-

what the success percentage for this preformed ball grids?

how long it takes ?

thx

[kerim92]

i recommended direct heat stencil too..

you can use solder paste and balls too..

if u want to use solder balls with direct heat stencil put little bit (very less) flux with your finger move on ever solder connection then put template on it. put balls on it. directly reflow. i use upside of chip a big aliminium cpu fan. chip will not ****.

solder paste and very good too.

im using hot gun with low air to solder them on chip. and aliminium fan is protection of chipset **** degree..

good works with direcly heat stencil templates..

and my old set(90x90) in trashcan rightnow.

[geniusmiki]

thanks for feedback on directly heat stencil.
can you make a video of your job?

[kerim92]

i want to make a video for that. but there are too many laptops waiting for repair them.

sorry can't make it right now.

[Dan Collins]

Here's a couple of tips for those working on HP laptop motherboards.
I have found that after the reballing if the heat from the fan is hot, then the GPU might be bad. The surface temp of the GPU should not exceed 55C. Normal running temp is 45-50C. If it does and you have proper cooler pads then the GPU is bad and will soon fail
Also, I have run into many AMD CPU's that were also bad most likely because they also damage during the overheating. Common issue with bad CPU's is after laptop heats up, laptop shuts off without warning.
Another tip is the memory plays a role in the overheating. Some memory runs very hot bringing the temp up in the chassis. x16 memory runs cooler than x8 because less chips on mem module.
And the main reason for chip overheating is the heatsink. Dirty fans and stock cooler pads are suspect. I use 3M silicon 5519 style pads and never have a heat transfer problem again.
So the goal here is to minimize the chassis temp. If everything is done right you would only feel cool air from the fan, then you know it is right. If the air is very warm or hot, it will eventually fail. That is your simple test for if you will see the laptop return to your shop.